Epilog Fusion M2 40 Laser Engraver Installation Notes:
General Notes
line weight:
< .001 points = vector
> 0.001 points = raster
Laser Kerf is 0.004"
Maybe we should get a co2 fire extinguisher
Cutting/engraving order: etches first then cuts. Almost always cuts inside before outside (Not true with letter outline).
Color mapping for different depths - need to define in RGB color space and must perfectly match the RGB values in the image software.
Process
Start up
Turn on computer and laser
Turn on blower and compressor
Clean lens
Set up Image to print
Standard is Adobe Illustrator (see below)
On the Epilog Device
Set manual focus depth, if not set to AutoFocus
Scroll through setting → Find job and start
Watch job complete, to make sure it doesn’t catch fire Always watch laser
If on fire → blow out flame
Can stop and remove media, but no good registration for continuing part if you do.
Always watch laser!!
Shut down
Make sure nothing is still burning or generating fumes
Turn off blower and compressor
Turn off computer and laser
Clean lens
Clean out grid, if needed
Software:
AutoCAD - select a window
SolidWorks: from drawing sheet, 1:1 scale, need to figure out line weights
Suggest using Adobe Illustrator for vector - but set line weight to .001 points for anything that needs to be cut.
Can use anything for raster (eg. Photoshop)
Illustrator Usage Notes (Cutting instructions in Adobe Illustrator)
Process: File → Print → Epilog → Setup → Preferences (this is the dashboard)
Cut ⇒ 0.001 point for cutting (stroke width)
Engrave ⇒ Anything above 0.001 point
Options to set in Preferences (Dashboard)
Resolution: default is 600. Max is 1200. Go lower for faster etching. Doesn't affect cutting
Autofocus on (and set material thickness size) or turn autofocus off and set grid up/down height with jog functions and jig. Autofocus is not really autofocus since you have to manually put in the thickness
Manual focus → click focus on panel, then joystick to adjust height
If material varies in height, jog to desired location and then focus. Dont save anything → just uncheck autofocus and don't change stage height
Reset → sends head back to home location without changing the height
Center engraving → not used often. Sets a new home position. And that position is set by eye (manually).
Pick raster/cut or both. E.g. If have both types in the file and set to raster will ignore cut lines
Make stock size, same as Illustrator file size, same as piece size in setting
Laser settings for both raster and vector
Look in book for setting guidelines
Balance speed and power - need to experiment with new materials/thicknesses to get best balance of cutting/burning
Cutting small areas → head won't get to full speed in full areas. 10% speed per inch of width
Engrave direction ⇒ not often changed.
May want to reverse to avoid soot from covering freshly etched surface
Image dithering ⇒ not often changed. May want to adjust for images or photos
“Jarvis” setting may work better with photos
Speed comp ⇒ Reduces speed by ½
Power comp ⇒ Reduces speed when rounding corners with cutting
Sometimes a faster setting with multiple passes will work better because it doesn't burn as much. Higher power can lead to flame
Always Monitor Process
When printing, sometimes media size may not match file size, go back to settings → preferences, and will update size
Raster: variable depth control (Color mapping)
Use RGB color mode (File → New → Color map RGB)
Set color → laser cutting values in
Print → Setup → PReferences → Color mapping
Loading presets for different materials (Advanced tab)
Print → Setup → Preferences → Advanced
Save and load preset settings for laser and piece size
Can dowload presets from Epilog
Setup
Vector grid - make sure pins on bottom seat in the holes on the base of the machine. Should be positioned almost all of the way to the back of the interior space available.
Vector grid can be used for cutting and etching. Standard bed can only be used for etching (don't use for cutting). Most people leave the vector grid in place all the time. Only remove if need to put something large or heavy in place. Vector grid front can also be opened to clean out small parts/offcuts that fall through, as needed.
Daily & Per Job Tasks
Clean the lens and mirror at the cutting head with a swab and the cleaning fluid.
Wipe to clean the lens at the end of each day of use (or at the beginning of each day)
Need to get q-tips (Steve P mentioned ones for chemistry that leave fewer threads)
WIll save on life of laser
Just turn off laser and pull gantry forward to access.
Three thumb screws remove laser cover.
Watch for spring loaded bar on bottom.
Need to clean both lens and final mirror on carriage above material.
Less often need to clean mirror on side.
Wipe down belts regularly (weekly?)
Laser focus:
Use Auto Focus, but need to specify material thickness in software (Preferences pane of print dialog when printing)
Manual Focus: Hang manual focus gauge, just touch surface of material to position.
Materials:
Bad Materials:
Don't cut vinyl, PVC (or anything with vinyl in it) ⇒ toxic fumes, don't use sintra or comatex (PVC)
Polycarbonate (eg. Lexan) doesn't work ⇒ smokes and melts, sooty
Gatorcore not ok either
Good Materials:
Foamcore is fine
Foam insulation works well -- even up to 2". Edge quality might suffer for thick materials - Polystyrene is ideal
Can't cut metal, but can use Cermark(tm) with metal (burns onto the metal)
- Can etch anodized aluminum (eg. back of iPhone, iPad)
Corian cuts well - great use for offcuts from local cabinet/sink shops
Very good use is for matching wood veneers (marquetry)
Cardboard and foamcore are succeptable to catching fire
Can cut many materials up to ½"
For acrylic → best to keep the backing paper on the bottom to avoid reflection from the vector table
Can also just elevate the material off of grid
Possible Sources of materials:
Laserbits.com ⇒ source for laser cutting materials
Local hardware stores - limited selection, no colors